Publicly, Prada executives attributed the slide to declining tourism related to fear of terrorism and severe acute respiratory syndrome and to the strong euro, but not to what some retailers now acknowledge, that Mr. Lang`s dedication to minimalism was absolute even as consumer tastes evolved.
"Look at Dolce & Gabbana, Cavalli, Dior and Chloe," said Carla Sozzani, the owner of 10 Corso Como, an influential store in Milan, where Prada is based. "That has nothing to do with Helmut Lang. The whole concept of minimalism was very good in the early 90`s, but then for the past several years people were not interested in that look."
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Matters were not helped by Mr. Lang`s failure to create an "it" handbag. A Helmut Lang fragrance introduced in 2000 was also a disappointment. In the end, friends of Mr. Lang contend, Prada did not invest enough in the brand or fulfill its promise of opening Helmut Lang retail stores. They described how the designer would discuss plans with Prada`s chief executive, Patrizio Bertelli, and then not hear anything for months. Prada executives faulted Mr. Lang`s exacting control and said it hindered their ability to do business.
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