A/W + S/S 08 Inspirating Muse to Dream Wardrobe

Emilio  Pucci

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Max  Mara

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Fendi

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shoes  and  accessories

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Dsquared2

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Dolce  &  Gabbana

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Versace

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Giorgio  Armani最近惹惱不少編輯..

好文共享

(The  Sunday  Times)
Flak  hits  the  frocks  as  legendary  designer  Giorgio  Armani  and  Vogue  editor  Anna  Wintour  fall  out

Designer  Giorgio  Armani  and  Vogue  editor  Anna  Wintour  are  squaring  up  to  one  another.  The  future  shape  of  the  fashion  industry  is  at  stake...

It  started  as  a  spat  amid  the  superheroes  rather  than  the  supermodels.  Giorgio  Armani,  the  Italian  designer  with  a  £1  billion  fashion  empire,  and  Anna  Wintour,  the  British-born  doyenne  of  catwalk  journalism,  had  come  together  at  Milan  fashion  week  to  announce  a  collaboration  on  an  art  exhibition  in  New  York  this  summer.

They  posed  together  smiling  against  a  backdrop  of  statues  of  such  caped  crusaders  as  Batman  and  Superman  and  mannequins  wearing  the  haute  couture  costumes  and  cowls  they  had  inspired.  Wintour  wore  her  usual  Prada;  Armani  sported  a  characteristic  blue  jacket.

But  then  the  flak  hit  the  frocks. 

http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article3423457.ece

Paris  08FW  Fashion  Week  Highlights


Rick  Owens  --->
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A.F.  Vandevorst
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Undercover-->

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Kris  Van  Assche

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Yohji  Yamamoto-->

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Maison  Martin  Margiela

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Christian  Dior

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Balenciaga

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Shoes  and  accessories
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Balenciaga

``Mr.  Ghesquiere’s  opening  threesome  of  black  dresses  were  done  in  stiff  wool  crepe  or  gabardine,  yet  they  looked  light.  They  were  cut  close  to  the  body,  with  sleeves  whittled  down  to  armbands  that  gave  the  dresses  an  erotic  edge,  yet  they  were  wearable.  They  looked  chic,  but  more  than  that,  you  sensed  an  energy,  and  it  was  supplied  by  treating  the  couture  fabrics  and  the  drapery  with  a  vigor  and  lightness  of  hand  rather  than  reverence.

This  was  Mr.  Ghesquiere’s  approach  throughout  the  collection.  “Even  though  the  fabrics  look  quite  heavy,  I  wanted  everything  to  be  light,”  he  said  afterward.  Patent-leather  coats  in  shades  of  chocolate  and  burgundy  were  unlined,  their  glossy  surfaces  evoking  his  interest  in  futuristic  materials.``  ---NYTimes

Comme  des  Garçons

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Sex  must  be  in  the  air.  Rei  Kawakubo’s  look  through  the  boudoir  keyhole  was  witty  and  informed.  In  a  Comme  des  Garçons  collection  on  Tuesday  that  included  rounded  coats  ventilated  with  lip-shaped  openings  and  lots  of  frilly  garter  straps  crisscrossing  bare  backs,  Ms.  Kawakubo  surprised  even  as  she  agitated.  Chaste  white  shirts  served  as  a  foil  for  glen  plaid  jackets  reduced  to  a  lapel  section  or  a  sleeve  and  then  harnessed  tightly  to  the  body  with  straps.  Alone,  the  stripped-down  jackets  were  fantastic.
(NYTimes)

George 
謝謝你的好文共享。看到這文章我真的只能說我很有相同感受，工作上我也不喜歡要求多又自私的媒體。這陣子因為排秀場位子也是搞得大家灰頭土臉，因為總是會有“大頭症“的媒體，也有超愛耍大牌的還有一些被拒於門外連standing都沒辦法給的。

遇過很棒很守信用，大家合作愉快的媒體，也有遇過要求一大堆又態度差的。寫這篇的Cloudia  Croft是我們常合作的fashion  journalist,  我們一定給他好位子，他是個很體諒品牌跟PR的記者。我相信沒有品牌會喜歡沒事冒犯媒體，品牌絕對是儘可能去滿足媒體的要求，這樣大家皆大歡喜，不過我明白總是有人胃口越來越大獅子大開口，但我們的包容忍耐也是有限度。

品牌跟媒體關係不好，影響的當然不只是editorial的多少，品牌也可以開始抽廣告來回敬，但我想這樣下去是不是兩敗俱傷...
只能說媒體的關係真的是個很微妙也複雜的學問！

chanelxxx96
我剛從巴黎回來,不過行程只有吃!與fashion  week無關...哈!!太感謝之前大夥們無私的分享,很多還沒吃到呢...
還在回味Piere  Herm的甜點...

羨慕你有實際體會這個行業的機會,不過想必也是非常折磨人吧!  Cloudia  Croft的專題量少質佳,相當值得讚賞.  另外我也常閱讀紐時Cathy  Horyn的文章,  幾週前她被Armani拒於門外,寫了一篇感想,也分享給大家:
http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/02/18/milan-please-dont-come/
至於原因為何大家讀了就知道囉~

還有最近剛出的Times  Style  and  Design  Magzine,
主題是"The  Global  Millennial  Generation",探討千禧世代(born  between  1980~2000)年輕奢華消費的分析.
http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/1,28757,1714683,00.html

PaoPao
在巴黎有讀到Suzie  Menkes幾場秀的review.
在英國讀到Herald  Tribune的機會不多.
不過看星期天的報紙真是一種享受..有時一份可以看一整周!

Suzie  Mekes在最新一期紐時TMagzine最新專欄報導.
http://www.nytimes.com/indexes/2008/02/24/style/t/index.html#pageName=24smenkes

Viktor  &  Rolf

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"We  love  fashion,  but  it`s  going  so  fast.  We  wanted  to  say  `No`  this  season."  Thus  spoke  Viktor  Horsting  and  Rolf  Snoeren  to  a  group  of  devoted  fans  and  curious  reporters  eager  to  parse  the  meaning  of  a  somewhat  difficult  Fall  show  that  began  with  a  precise  gray  trench,  the  word  "No"  popping  out  from  its  chest  in  3-D,  and  ended  with  a  strapless  black  tulle  dress  gathered  below  the  knee  and  embroidered  with  the  phrase  "Dream  on."
(style.com)

Junya  Watanabe

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Tao

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Ann  Demeulemeester  -->

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Veronique  Branquinho

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Jean  Paul  Gaultier

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Giveny

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"I`ve  been  traveling  in  South  America,  and  I  discovered  a  romantic  sensuality  and  elegance  there  I  really  identified  with  as  a  Catholic,"  said  Tisci  by  way  of  explanation.  The  Hispanic  influence  became  more  obvious  in  the  black  lace  and  flamenco/matador  touches  later  in  the  show,  but  (huge  relief)  the  sense  of  modernity  didn`t  end  up  sacrificed  on  the  altar  of  theme.(style.com)

shoes  and  accessories
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